Former French Concession
» Shanghai, Jiang Su

上海法租界 畸形上海的梦影

Former French Concession Streets get away from the busy streets and explore the area between Julu Road to the north and Huaihai Road running through the center, plus Mao Ming Road and surrounding area to the south of Huaihai Road. Pleasant tree-lined streets and local Shanghainese bustle, combined with a growing number of trendy boutiques and restaurants.

Information need to know

In the beginning it appeared likely that the settlements would be run as one administrative unit. But the French finally decided to set up a separate municipal government. The French Consul had signed the 1854 Land Regulations, but they felt they were not bound by the regulations as they were never ratified by the French Government. So on May 13th, the Municipal Council of the Concession Francaise was formed.

Shopping

Changle Road and Xinle Road are rapidly becoming the places to find small designer clothing shops. Interesting architecture built with French and Belgian money and showing mixed Chinese-European styles.

A charming place

Like Xin Tian Di (New Heaven and Earth), the hottest establishments are located to exploit the freewheeling, romantic atmospherics of the old French Concession rather than the stuffy dignity of the Bund, say, or the brassy ostentation of Pudong, as many visitors might suppose. But unlike the Bund or Pudong, the boundaries of the old French Concession aren't self-evident.

What used to be

Before 1949, in fact, it was a relatively low-rent district mainly inhabited by Chinese and White Russians, the latter of whom, for all their claims to wealth and titles back home, were looked down on by other Westerners as latecomers, obliged to take jobs that should have been left to the Chinese.

Fascinatingly, however, certain French characteristics have lingered here, in the local chic, and in a taste for bread and sweet cakes - exemplified in Huaihai Lu, the main street running through the heart of the area. Not as crowded as Nanjing Lu, Huaihai Lu is considerably more upmarket, particularly in the area around Maoming Lu and Shaanxi Lu, where fashion boutiques, extremely expensive department stores and excellent cake shops abound.

Places worth to visit

The French Concession was much quieter than the International Settlement. Leafy lanes, western-style mansions and gardens. It was only in the 1930's that it gained a reputation as a haven for vice and drugs. The clubs were mostly in the concession -- and many of the churches. The White Russians moved into the area, particularly along Avenue Joffre. And so did many rich and influential Chinese. For the Chinese Communist Party and leftist writers and intellectuals, it was also a haven.

The Jinjiang compound

The Jinjiang compound includes the former Grosvenor Residence complex, the most fashionable and pricey address in pre-World War II Shanghai. The Grosvenor has recently been modernized, but the VIP Club still retains much of its 1920's architecture and Great Gatsby ambience. Non-guests might be able to sneak a peek by taking the elevator to the top floor of the Old Wing of the Jinjiang, where the Club is located, although gaining entrance to one of the twenty $800 a night VIP Mansion rooms on the floors directly below, with astonishingly beautiful, refurbished Art-Deco architecture, might prove slightly more difficult. Unfortunately, the Grosvenor's grand lobby, with crystal chandeliers and finely sculpted balustrade, no longer exists.

The Jinjiang compound also includes the former site of Cercle Sportif Francais, the club of choice in the 1930's. Less sexist but just as racist as its British counterpart along the Bund, the Cercle counted forty women among its members, but no Chinese. Little of the club's original architecture remains today.

Changle lu & Julu lu

Some more excellent examples of Palladin , Art-Deco and other early twentieth-century architecture survive several blocks south, in the private residences along Changle Lu and Julu Lu, which run parallel to and several blocks north of Huaihai Zhong Lu. Most notably, the former Russian Orthodox Mission Church still proudly features its blue dome along nearby Xinle Lu, although a securities exchange and disco called "St Peter's" now inhabit the premises.

Huaihai Lu

The main street running through the heart of the area. Not as crowded as Nanjing Lu, Huaihai Lu is considerably more upmarket, particularly in the area around Maoming Lu and Shaanxi Lu , where fashion boutiques, extremely expensive department stores and excellent cake shops abound.

the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party

The First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party (Tues, Wed & Fri-Sun) is the first preserved 1920's relic that you'll come across, locate in the south of Huaihai Lu, at the junction of Xingye Lu and Huangpi Nan Lu. The official story of this house is that on July 23, 1921, thirteen representatives of the Communist cells which had developed all over China, including its most famous junior participant Mao Zedong, met here to discuss the formation of a national party.

Sinan Lu

Beyond the gigantic north-south flyover and very close to Fuxing Park is Sinan Lu, where two of the heroes of modern China lived.

Sun Yatsen Memorial Residence

At no. 39 is the Sun Yatsen Memorial Residence, with its large British-style lawn in the back garden, screened by mature trees and high walls. Sun Yatsen lived here from 1918 to 1924, and inside the house you can see his books, a gramophone, fireplaces and verandahs -all fantastically disorienting in contemporary Shanghai. Sun's widow, Song Qingling, stayed in the house until 1937.

Zhou Enlai's Former Residence

Just south of Fuxing Lu is Zhou Enlai's Former Residence, at 73 Sinan Lu. This delightful house has a terrace at the back with rattan chairs and polished wooden floors, and its garden, with hedges and ivy-covered walls, could easily be a part of 1930's suburban London.

Ruijin Guesthouse

Several blocks west rises the stately Ruijin Guesthouse , on the corner of Fuxing Zhong Lu and Shanxi Nan Lu. This Tudor-style country manor was home to the Morriss family, owners of the North China Daily News. Mr Morriss raised greyhounds for the Shanghai Race Club and the former Canidrome dog track across the street.

Having miraculously escaped severe damage during the Cultural Revolution because certain high-ranking officials used it as their private residence, the house has now been turned into a pleasant inn. Even if you're not a guest, you are free to walk around the spacious, quiet grounds, where it's hard to believe you are in the middle of one of the world's most hectic cities.

Song Qingling's Former Residence

A good deal farther west, at 1843 Huaihai Xi Lu, about twenty minutes' walk northwest from the Hengshan Lu metro station, is Song Qingling's Former Residence, who lived here on and off from 1948 until her death in 1981.

As the wife of Sun Yatsen, Song Qingling was part of a bizarre family coterie - her sister Song Meiling was married to Chiang Kaishek and her brother, known as "TV Soong", was finance minister to Chiang. Song Qingling herself was to remain loyal to China throughout her life, latterly as one of the honorary "Presidents" of the People's Republic, while Meiling - now reviled in the People's Republic - is still alive today, having made her permanent home in New York City.

Once again the house is a charming step back into a residential Shanghai of the past, and although this time the trappings on display - including her official limousines parked in the garage - are largely post-1949, there is some lovely wood panelling and lacquerwork inside the house.

Xitiandi Area

Xintiandi area is a popular spot for young people, particularly well-heeled yuppies. It is a place where you can find a lot of restaurants and clubs. Besides these pubs you can also see some traditional Shanghai-style lodgings (Shikumen, stone gate houses) which are a unique blend of European and Chinese design. There is a nice miniature museum, showing the configuration and interior of a recreated 1930s shikumen house.

Where to joy

For much of its colorful history Shanghai nightlife catered to adventurous foreigners. That remains true today to a far lesser extent. A sizeable proportion of clubs and restaurants are operated by foreigners or U.S.. But the majority are now being taken over by a young generation of Shanghainese impatient with the nostaligia foreigners sport toward the colonial era.

The following are some of the bars in the former concession area:

  • Ark Live House: 15 North Lane, Xin Tian Di Lane 181 Rue Auguste Boppe (Taicang Lu);
  • California Club: 2A Rue Corneille (Gao Lan Lu), Fuxing Park;
  • Guandi: 2 Rue Corneille (Gao Lan Lu), Fuxing Park;
  • Cotton Club: 1428 Avenue Joffre (Huaihai Zhong Lu);
  • Club DKD: 172 Route Rue Cardinal Mercier (Maoming Nan Lu) near Route Herve de Sieyes;
  • Babyface: 180 Route Rue Cardinal Mercier (Maoming Nan Lu);
  • Face: Bldg 4, 118 Route Pere Robert (Ruijin Er Lu);

Attractions around » Shanghai, Jiang Su

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  Weather

  1. What should we need to know when visiting Shanghai in different seasons?
  2. What's the best season for traveling there?

  Transportation

  1. What about the transportation between Shanghai and its surrounding cities?

  Food

  1. What's the specialty of Shanghai cuisine?
  2. What are the must-eat Shanghai snacks? And what to notice?

  Shopping

  1. Where is the most famous area for shopping here?
  2. Where can we visit on our spare time?

  Travel

  1. How about Shanghai's nightlife?

  Other Hints

  1. How many airports do Shanghai have?
  2. What is the city code of Shanghai?

  • What should we need to know when visiting Shanghai in different seasons?

    The four seasons are easy to tell apart. The weather is pleasant, and the number of all kinds of products is large in Spring and Autumn.

    Every June and July is the mold rain season, so it is usually humid in hotel rooms. Umbrella is a necessary thing to bring with during the rainy weather.

    The coldest time is from late January to early February. Even though there is not much snow, warm clothes are still needed, because cold wind is always unendurable. Hotel rooms are equipped with air-conditions, so please stay warm in the room.

    It is usually super hot in July and August. Weather with higher than 35 C usually stays for about ten days, so that prevention from overheat is very necessary.


  • What's the best season for traveling there?

    After humid mold rain season and cold winter, there comes the Spring with blooming flowers, or the Autumn with falling red leaves, which are the best the seasons for trevaling.


  • What about the transportation between Shanghai and its surrounding cities?

    Travel line in the east China includes Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. It usually takes about 2C3 hours to travel between cities. Medicine that prevents car-sickness is necessary.

    Multi-city traveling usually requires travelers to put up each night in different cities. Please take care of your belongings when checking out.


  • What's the specialty of Shanghai cuisine?

    Shanghai cuisine is a mixture of five different cuisines and western food. Apart from its local food, it also has Beijing cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, Guangdong cuisine, Hunan cuisine, Yangzhou cuisine, Chaozhou Cuisine, Anhui Cuisine and vegetarian cuisine, etc.

    Of course, Italian food, Russian food, French food, Vietnamese food, Korean food and Japanese food can also be found in Shanghai.

    Local people like food with light seasoning and light sweetness. Rice is their main food. People that like strong seasoning can prepare their own seasonings.

    Travelers with special needs please give us notice before hand, so we can prepare for you earlier according to your requirements.


  • What are the must-eat Shanghai snacks? And what to notice?

    Shanghai Nanxiang Dumplings, Crab Roe Dumplings, Steamed Dumplings Filled with Minced Meat and Gravy, Fermented Rice with Pigeon Eggs, Rib Rice Cakes, Eggs Boiled with Five Ingredients, Five Ingredients Beans, etc. There are a lot of delicious local food.

    Please mind the sanitation when enjoying the tasty food.


  • Where is the most famous area for shopping here?

    The shopping heaven in Shanghai is Nanjing Road. It has a name of 'the number one shopping street in China.' Now all kinds of stores have been opened by all kinds of business people. There are not only old stores that have hundreds of years, but also modern shopping malls like Friendship Europe Shopping Mall, Mancton Square, HUalian Shopping Center, etc.

    Huaihai Road is as famous as Nanjing Road. Shopping malls are standing at each side of the road: Guangna World Center, Paris Spring, Meimei Shopping Center, Parkson, etc. World famous brand can all be found in the shopping malls, which make Shanghai a shopping center of world class.

    Sichuan North Road's stores offer reasonable prices, which attracts a lot of common people. Xizangzhong Road had developed food and travel industry.


  • Where can we visit on our spare time?

    Shanghai is where Chinese movie originated. It is also where a lot of international movie festivals take place. There are world-class theaters. Famous movies and latest movies can all be found in Shanghai's movie theaters.

    Huanyi Movie Theather on Nanjing West Road, Yongle Palace on Anfu Road are the most famous movie theathers in Shanghai.

    You can also go to teahouse. Different from traditional teahouse, the teahouse in Shanghai adds more modern atmosphere that attracts more and more young people.

    New theme parks and amusement parks in Shanghai are good choices too. Modern equipments and beautiful natural scenes will bring you to the ideal land.


  • How about Shanghai's nightlife?

    Bars, KTV and DISCO are indispensable in a busy city like Shanghai. Beautiful lights are like the reflection of the stars, lightening the whole city and bring the city endless liveliness.

    Blue Belt Night Club, Night Paris and the famous Big World are all well known and loved by young people. Dancing people and fragrant martini will make you forget about tiredness and start to enjoy the charm of Shanghai city.


  • How many airports does Shanghai have?

    There are two international airports in Shanghai, which are Hongqiao Aireport and Pudong International Airport.

    Hundreds of airlines are in service, which can reach to every big and medium city in China and some cities in each country.

    Air traffic is very convenient. Pudong International Airport is mainly for international airlines, while Hongqiao Airport is mainly for national airlines.


  • What is the city code of Shanghai?

    Shanghai's area code: 021


Today, the area's central Huaihai Road is a busy shopping street, but the tree-lined avenues and their many Tudor mansions still retain an air of the "Paris of the East." The French Concession is the first choice for many foreigners.

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